The effects of Jawoongo soap on skin improvement.

BACKGROUND: Jawoongo is used to treat and prevent skin issues such as dry and keratinization disorders, burns, trauma, pigmentation, scarring, and inflammatory skin conditions. In this study, the efficacy and safety of 0.47% Jawoongo extract-containing soap (JAUN-CS) were assessed in terms of skin improvement effects such as cleansing, moisturizing, sebum secretion management, and skin elasticity enhancement. METHODS: Twenty healthy adult men and women aged 20-60 years old took part in the study. Before and after using JAUN-CS, the participants were divided into groups, and various skin improvement effects were measured utilizing machines such as the Corneometer, Tewameter TM 300, and Visioscan. A dermatologist analyzed the product's safety in accordance with Frosch & Kligman and the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) rules. RESULTS: Using JAUN reduced the amount of base and point makeup by 25.7% and 76.7%, respectively. Also, JAUN showed a great facial exfoliation effect by removing the old and lifted skin keratins by 84.7% and 20.3%, respectively. Impurities in facial pores decreased by 58%, too. Furthermore, JAUN increased the moisture content of deep skin and skin surface by 3.5% and 74.0%, and skin elasticity by 2.8%. Skin tone, skin texture, skin radiance, and skin barrier all showed improvements of 3.3%, 20.0%, 15.0%, and 115.2%, respectively. Lastly, cleansing with JAUN successfully enhanced the condition of the youth triangle by 7.6%, while TEWL significantly decreased by 52.7%. Neither the JAUN nor the control group soap showed any adverse reactions, such as erythema or allergies, during the testing period. CONCLUSIONS: The results of this study demonstrated that JAUN is safe for human use and has various skin-improving properties, making Jawoongo a promising natural material for the development of functional cosmetics in the future.

Silicone based water-in-oil emulsion fortified with anthocyanin: In-vitro, in-vivo study.

Skin care formulations with antioxidants are being widely explored for their benefits to human skin. The purpose of this study was to formulate a stable w/o emulsion containing anthocyanin derived from Malus dosmestica fruit extract and to further explore its beneficial effects on normal human skin. Anthocyanin was extracted using various solvents from the peel of Malus dosmestica fruit. w/o creams containing anthocyanin has been prepared and systematically characterized for various physiochemical properties in terms of stability at varying conditions of storage. An efficacy study has been carried out on 12 male healthy Asian subjects to determine effects of anthocyanin on skin melanin, erythema, skin moisture, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and on skin sebum. Solvent system containing methanol/acetone/water (3.5: 3.5: 3 v/v/v) including 1% formic acid established a best recovery of anthocyanin from fruit peel. W/O emulsions presented promising stability profile when kept at different storage conditions over 90 days period. All skin parameters studied, anthocyanin has been found more efficacious (p<0.05) for its effects on skin melanin and erythema content of skin. It has been shown that a topical application of anthocyanin derived from Malus domestica has substantial potential for human skin system and needs some patient oriented studies could warrant its potential for damaged skin.

Gene expression profile of human follicle dermal papilla cells in response to Camellia japonica phytoplacenta extract.

Camellia japonica L. is a flowering tree with several medicinal and cosmetic applications. Here, we investigated the efficacy of C. japonica placenta extract (CJPE) as a potential therapeutic agent for promotion of hair growth and scalp health by using various in vitro and in vivo assays. Moreover, we performed transcriptome analysis to examine the relative expression of human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC) in response to CJPE by RNA-sequencing (RNA-seq). In vitro assays revealed upregulation of the expression of hair growth marker genes in HFDPC after CJPE treatment. Moreover, in vivo clinical tests with 42 adult female participants showed that a solution containing 0.5% CJPE increased the moisture content of the scalp and decreased the scalp's sebum content, dead scalp keratin, and erythema. Furthermore, RNA-seq analysis revealed key genes in HFDPC which are associated with CJPE. Interestingly, genes associated with lipid metabolism and cholesterol efflux were upregulated. Genes upregulated by CJPE are associated with several hormones, including parathyroid, adrenocorticotropic hormone, α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH), and norepinephrine, which are involved in hair follicle biology. Furthermore, some upregulated genes are associated with the regulation of axon guidance. In contrast, many genes downregulated by CJPE are associated with structural components of the cytoskeleton. In addition, CJPE suppressed genes associated with muscle structure and development. Taken together, this study provides extensive evidence that CJPE may have potential as a therapeutic agent for scalp treatment and hair growth promotion.

Amazake made from sake cake and rice koji suppresses sebum content in differentiated hamster sebocytes and improves skin properties in humans.

Amazake is a traditional Japanese health drink. Here, we examined the effects of amazake on skin in cells and humans. Treatment with sake cake or rice koji suppressed intracellular lipid accumulation in differentiated hamster sebocytes, likely through the reduced expression of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-gamma (PPARγ) mRNA. In double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, seventeen Japanese women ingested either amazake or placebo for 4 weeks. Ingestion of the amazake decreased the sebum content compared to the placebo. The questionnaires showed improvements in "face color," "dark circles under the eyes," "glossy hair," and "waking up well", only in the amazake. In accordance with the questionnaires, additional analysis revealed the change in the L* values under the eyes was statistically increased in the amazake compared to the placebo. These results indicate that amazake may decrease sebum content in cells and humans and increase the L* values under the eyes, with some additional beneficial effects in humans.

Complexes of Ectoine with the Anionic Surfactants as Active Ingredients of Cleansing Cosmetics with Reduced Irritating Potential.

For many years, an increasing number of diagnosed atopy and skin problems have been observed. For people affected by the problem of atopy, the selection of skin care products, including cosmetics, is extremely important. Cleansing cosmetics, due to their ability to cause skin irritations and disturb the hydrolipidic barrier, can increase problems with atopic skin. New solutions to reduce the effects of these products on the skin are very important. In this work, the effect of ectoine on the properties of anionic surfactants was analyzed. Based on model systems, analysis of the effect of ectoine on the irritating effect of four anionic surfactants and their ability to solubilize model sebum was performed. Antioxidant activity was also evaluated, and cytotoxic studies were performed on cell cultures. It was shown that the addition of ectoine to the anionic surfactant solutions improves its safety of use. After introducing ectoine to the surfactant solution, a decrease of irritant potential (about 20%) and a decrease in the ability to solubilize of model sebum (about 10-20%) was noted. Addition of ectoine to surfactant solutions also reduced their cytotoxicity by up to 60%. The obtained results indicate that ectoine may be a modern ingredient that improves the safety of cleansing cosmetics.

A cleanser formulated with Tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and l-arginine significantly improves facial acne in male Thai subjects.

BACKGROUND: Acne is one of the most common skin problems among human populations. A facial cleanser formulated with alkyl ether carboxylate (AEC) and alkyl carboxylate (AC) can improve acne by cleansing sebum on facial skin but cannot effectively remove keratotic plugs in the skin pores. Recently, we confirmed that Tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and L-arginine (Tris/Arg) is able to reduce sebum levels, disrupt keratotic plugs in vitro and decrease pore size on facial skin. OBJECTIVE: To compare the efficacy of the Tris/Arg-formulated cleanser with the AEC/AC cleanser in Thai subjects with acne. METHODS: We designed a randomized, double-blind, controlled, parallel trial. Thirty-four male Thai subjects with mild to moderate acne were assigned to one of two groups: one group used the Tris/Arg cleanser while the other used the AEC/AC-based cleanser twice a day for 4 weeks. RESULTS: After 4 weeks, significant decreases in noninflammatory acne were observed in both groups, yet significant decreases in inflammatory acne were only observed in the Tris/Arg cleanser group. The sebum level prior to and 30 minutes after facial washing showed no change in either group. The average pore size with keratotic plugs on the cheeks was significantly decreased in the Tris/Arg group. More than half of subjects in both groups observed acne improvement but more subjects in the Tris/Arg group noted pore size improvement. CONCLUSION: The Tris/Arg formulated cleanser has a high efficacy for significantly reducing both noninflammatory and inflammatory acne accompanied by decreases in pore size with keratotic plugs in male Thai subjects.

Human sebum requires de novo lipogenesis, which is increased in acne vulgaris and suppressed by acetyl-CoA carboxylase inhibition.

Sebum plays important physiological roles in human skin. Excess sebum production contributes to the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris, and suppression of sebum production reduces acne incidence and severity. We demonstrate that sebum production in humans depends on local flux through the de novo lipogenesis (DNL) pathway within the sebocyte. About 80 to 85% of sebum palmitate (16:0) and sapienate (16:1n10) were derived from DNL, based on stable isotope labeling, much higher than the contribution of DNL to triglyceride palmitate in circulation (~20%), indicating a minor contribution by nonskin sources to sebum lipids. This dependence on local sebocyte DNL was not recapitulated in two widely used animal models of sebum production, Syrian hamsters and Göttingen minipigs. Confirming the importance of DNL for human sebum production, an acetyl-CoA carboxylase inhibitor, ACCi-1, dose-dependently suppressed DNL and blocked synthesis of fatty acids, triglycerides, and wax esters but not free sterols in human sebocytes in vitro. ACCi-1 dose-dependently suppressed facial sebum excretion by ~50% (placebo adjusted) in human individuals dosed orally for 2 weeks. Sebum triglycerides, wax esters, and free fatty acids were suppressed by ~66%, whereas non-DNL-dependent lipid species, cholesterol, and squalene were not reduced, confirming selective modulation of DNL-dependent lipids. Last, individuals with acne vulgaris exhibited increased sebum production rates relative to individuals with normal skin, with >80% of palmitate and sapienate derived from DNL. These findings highlight the importance of local sebocyte DNL for human skin sebaceous gland biology and illuminate a potentially exploitable therapeutic target for the treatment of acne vulgaris.

Investigation of antiaging and skin rejuvenation potential of phyto-constituents from Pyrus communis loaded topical emulgel.

Pyrus communis fruit is traditionally used for improving the skin color and texture. The current study was designed to investigate Pyrus communis fruit phytoconstituents and their in-vivo rejuvenation effects on human skin by developing a stable emulgel formulation. Hydro-alcoholic extract of Pyrus communis was subjected to phytochemical analysis (TPC, TFC, antioxidant activity and anti-tyrosinase activity). A stable emulgel formulation loaded with 5% (w/w) Pyrus communis fruit extract was developed. Afterwards, this stable emulgel formulation was tested for effects on skin parameters and compared these with placebo (without fruit extract) by employing them on healthy human volunteers (n=13) for 3 months. Investigated in-vivo skin parameters were skin erythema, melanin, moisture, sebum and elasticity. Pyrus communis fruit extract showed excellent antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities. The developed formulation was stable in varying conditions of temperature and humidity for a period of 12 weeks. The active formulation showed statistically significant (p<0.05) decrease in skin melanin, erythema and sebum level while increase in skin elasticity and moisture content when compared with placebo. From findings it is concluded that Pyrus communis fruit extract loaded emulgel possesses antiaging potential with improvement in skin tone and elasticity, ameliorated skin moisture and showed skin whitening potential.

New Concepts, Concerns, and Creations in Acne.

Laboratory monitoring for patients on isotretinoin should include creatinine kinase in athletic males and the more liver-specific gamma glutamyltransferase. There is mounting evidence that acne pathophysiology includes a barrier defect and subsequent microbiome disruption. Avoidance of acne scars with early and aggressive treatment is a more efficient and cost-effective option than subsequent treatment. Laser and light treatments for acne and acne scars are plentiful but poorly supported by evidence-based medicine. The acne pipeline is rich with new chemical entities, new formulations, and combinations of older agents. The gold standard for acne therapy may be changing its face.

Revisiting, in vivo, the hair regreasing process by the Sebuprint method.

BACKGROUND: The regreasing process of hair by sebum is daily observed by consumers. Methods to investigate this phenomenon were scarcely updated since the 1990s, despite the constant progresses in hair cleaning procedures or shampoo formulations. Our objective was first, to develop an in vivo noninvasive method for quantifying the spread of sebum along the hair shaft. Secondly, we use this new method to define the overall kinetics of the hair-regreasing process among two cohorts of Chinese men with opposite self-perceptions of their scalp/hair greasiness (ie, greasy or not greasy). MATERIAL AND METHODS: One hundred and twenty-three Chinese men (aged 18-35 years) participated to the study. The technique used basically adapts the Sebumeter™ technology where supple polymer films are applied onto and along the hair shaft. The sampled hair sebum is further quantified by image analysis/increased transparency. RESULTS: The technique developed showed an adequate reproducibility under fixed conditions (pressure, investigators, scalp sites, etc.). In the two cohorts of subjects (eg, greasy, nongreasy), hair regreasing process was found sharing a same linear progression with time. The two cohorts of men presented significantly different values in the total amount of spread sebum by an approximately two-fold coefficient, with however comparable average values in the sebum amount present at the root region 48 hours post shampoo. At such timing, the spread of sebum reaches much longer distances in the greasy scalp cohort. CONCLUSION: This technique appears promising for assessing the efficacy of cosmetic ingredients (or products) that aim at delaying a natural process that is daily and negatively perceived by consumers.

Effect of a botanical cleansing lotion on skin sebum and erythema of the face: A randomized controlled blinded half-side comparison.

BACKGROUND: Elevated levels of skin sebum are associated with the growth of Propionibacterium acnes. Intensive degreasing of the skin reduces Propionibacterium acnes but also may cause skin irritation. AIMS: We assessed the degreasing effect and skin tolerability of a botanical face cleanser with hops and willow bark extract and disodium cocoyl glutamate as mild cleansing agent compared to a standard face cleanser with sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). MATERIALS AND METHODS: A total of 21 healthy volunteers with normal to oily skin were enrolled in this study. Both cleansers were applied twice a day on the left or right side of the forehead for 15 days in a standardized manner. Bioengineering measurements were performed on day 8 and 15 and on day 17 after an application break of 48 hours. The sebum level was determined using a Sebumeter® , and skin redness was measured using a Mexameter® . RESULTS: The botanical face cleanser significantly reduced the sebum level (P < .01) in the test area on day 17. The SLES containing cleanser showed a statistically relevant degreasing effect already on day 15, but after the application break the sebum level increased again on day 17. None of the cleansers caused skin irritation as determined by skin redness measurements. CONCLUSIONS: In contrast to the SLES containing cleanser, the botanical skin cleanser with hops and willow bark extract had a continuous degreasing effect without reactive seborrhoe after the treatment break. Skin cleansing without SLES might be advantageous for sensitive skin.

Acne: a side-effect of masculinizing hormonal therapy in transgender patients.

BACKGROUND: Masculinizing hormonal treatment in transgender men has the potential to increase the level of androgens at end organs, including the pilosebaceous unit. Androgen-induced sebocyte growth and differentiation, sebum production and infundibular keratinization may underlie the development of acne vulgaris among patients receiving this therapy. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this article is to familiarize dermatologists with the sensitivities and challenges of treating acne in transgender male individuals. METHODS: This review article discusses the pathogenesis and treatment of acne in transgender men on testosterone therapy and highlights the unique considerations in treating this underserved patient population. RESULTS: Despite the incidence of treatment-related acne and the unique considerations in treating transgender men, studies addressing this topic among this patient population are limited. CONCLUSIONS: Generally, the standard guidelines for the treatment of acne can be followed in treating these patients; however, several medical, social and psychological factors should be considered.

Innovative Natural Ingredients-Based Multiple Emulsions: The Effect on Human Skin Moisture, Sebum Content, Pore Size and Pigmentation.

The increased interest in natural cosmetics has resulted in a higher market demand for preservative-free products based on herbal ingredients. An innovative W/O/W type emulsions containing herbal extracts were prepared directly; its cation form was induced by an ethanolic rosemary extract and stabilized using weak herbal gels. Due to the wide phytochemical composition of herbal extracts and the presence of alcohol in the emulsion system, which can cause skin irritation, sensitization or dryness when applied topically, the safety of the investigated drug delivery system is necessary. The aim of our study was to estimate the potential of W/O/W emulsions based on natural ingredients for skin irritation and phototoxicity using reconstructed 3D epidermis models in vitro and to evaluate in vivo its effect on human skin moisture, sebum content and pigmentation by biomedical examination using a dermatoscopic camera and corneometer. According to the results obtained after in vitro cell viability test the investigated emulsion was neither irritant nor phototoxic to human skin keratinocytes. W/O/W emulsion did not cause skin dryness in vivo, despite the fact that it contained ethanol. We can conclude that the emulsion is safe for use as a leave-on product due to the positive effect on human skin characteristics or as a semisolid pharmaceutical base where active compounds could be encapsulated.

Non-Invasive Immunofluorescence Assessment of Lycopene Supplementation Status in Skin Smears.

Circulating lycopene level is negatively associated with the prevalence of cardiovascular disease, cancers (prostate and breast), type 2 diabetes mellitus, and aging. Traditionally, lycopene is measured in biological specimens by a combination of high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and mass spectrometry methods. Moreover, as we recently reported, tissue/cell lycopene depositions can be observed by the immunohistochemistry method with a newly developed monoclonal antibody (mAb) against lycopene. A main objective of this study is to evaluate the performance of a new noninvasive immunofluorescence (IF) lycopene quantification skin test with mAbs against lycopene versus HPLC lycopene assay of serum lycopene in volunteers subjected to lycopene supplementation which represents a novel approach to lycopene measurement methodology. For this purpose, 32 healthy volunteers, 30-40 years old, were supplemented with lycopene (n = 15) or placebo (n = 17) for a period of 4 weeks. It was found that lycopene supplementation leads to a significant increase in serum lycopene concentration after 2 and 4 weeks by 2.6- and 3.4-fold over control, respectively. This was accompanied by a concordant step-wise rise in IF staining of skin corneocytes and sebum, quantifiable by arbitrary IF scores. Placebo supplementation did not affect serum lycopene values or intensity of IF staining of the skin samples. There was 86.6% agreement in paired HPLC/IF variants for the intermediate time point and 80.0% agreement at the end of the study in the lycopene group. Intraclass correlation between paired values in this group was +0.49 for the 2-week time point and +0.63 for the end point. These results indicate that the new antibody-based skin assay can be used for rapid detection of lycopene deficiencies. Moreover, the noninvasive nature of the skin swab test would allow using it to monitor, optimize, and personalize lycopene supplementation protocol of risk groups in the general population.

Preventing tick attachment to dogs using essential oils.

Preventing tick bites using repellents could make a valuable contribution to an integrated tick management programme for dogs. Here, the ability of a range of essential oils or active ingredients of commercially available repellents, to abolish the orientation and taxis of the tick Ixodes ricinus towards sebum extracted from dog hair was examined in laboratory bioassays. Substantial differences between oils were observed, but turmeric oil was both able to prevent a climbing response by ticks and had a longer residual activity than other oils. A blanket-drag field assay was then used to compare the attachment of ticks to blankets impregnated with one of: turmeric oil, DEET (positive control), orange-oil or excipient only (negative controls). In total, 899 ticks were counted, with an average of 23.3 (SD ±â€¯21.3) ticks per blanket drag for excipient-only (n = 16), 26.9 (SD ±â€¯28.6) for orange oil (n = 16), 2.6 (SD ±â€¯2.0) for turmeric oil (n = 16) and 3.4 (SD ±â€¯3.7) for DEET (n = 16). Finally, in a participatory in vivo trial, tick acquisition by 15 untreated control dogs was compared with 24 dogs sprayed with turmeric-oil and 16 dogs sprayed with orange oil (both 2.5% v/v diluted in water with a 1% coco glucoside excipient) before each walk in known tick infested areas. The percentage of dogs with ticks attached to the legs or belly of dogs sprayed with turmeric oil suspension (15% ±â€¯19.4%) was significantly lower than that of ticks attached to the same areas of dogs sprayed with orange oil suspension (85% ±â€¯19.4%) and unsprayed dogs (73% ±â€¯26.2%) (P < 0.05). The data indicate that turmeric-oil may form a valuable component of a tick management programme for domestic dogs.

Olumacostat Glasaretil, a Promising Topical Sebum-Suppressing Agent that Affects All Major Pathogenic Factors of Acne Vulgaris.

Hunt et al. show that olumacostat glasaretil, an inhibitor of acetyl coenzyme A carboxylase, reduces saturated and monounsaturated fatty acyl chains in sebaceous lipids. Topical olumacostat glasaretil application decreases hamster ear sebaceous gland size and shows efficacy in treating patients with acne vulgaris. Olumacostat glasaretil-mediated sebum suppression may reduce Propionibacterium acnes growth and biofilm formation, comedogenesis, and inflammation.

Pharmacological PPARγ modulation regulates sebogenesis and inflammation in SZ95 human sebocytes.

The nuclear receptor peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor gamma (PPARγ) controls the expression of genes involved in the regulation of lipid and glucose metabolism, cell proliferation/differentiation as well as inflammatory pathways. Pivotal studies in human sebocytes and isolated sebaceous glands have raised the interesting possibility that compounds acting on PPARγ can modulate sebaceous lipids and inflammation and, as such, may be useful in the treatment of acne. To investigate the role of this receptor in the regulation of lipid synthesis, proliferation and inflammation, we used the SZ95 sebaceous gland cell line stimulated with insulin. In sebocytes, insulin signaling activated the phosphatidylinositide 3-kinase-Akt (PI3K/Akt) and mammalian target of rapamycin (mTOR) pathways, which, in turn, induced high protein/lipid synthesis, increased cell growth and proliferation as well as inflammation. As regards lipogenesis, insulin initially stimulated the formation of unsaturated lipids and then the neosynthesis of lipids. The results showed, that the modulation of PPARγ, counteracted the insulin-induced altered lipogenesis, evident through a decrease in gene expression of key enzymes responsible for the synthesis of fatty acids, and through a reduction of lipid species synthesis analyzed by Oil/Nile Red staining and GC-MS. PPARγ modulation also regulated the insulin-induced proliferation, inhibiting the cell cycle progression and p21WAF1/CIP1 (p21) protein reduction. Moreover, the expression of inflammatory cytokines, induced by insulin or lipopolysaccharide (LPS), was down-modulated. In PPARγ-deficient cells or in the presence of GW9662 antagonist, all these observed effects were abolished, indicating that PPARγ activation plays a role in regulating alteration of lipogenesis, cell proliferation and inflammatory signaling. We demonstrated that selective modulation of PPARγ activity is likely to represent a therapeutic strategy for the treatment of acne.

Comparative effects of a fixed Polypodium leucotomos/Pomegranate combination versus Polypodium leucotomos alone on skin biophysical parameters.

OBJECTIVES: Polypodium leucotomos extract is a commonly used systemic photoprotective agent. In an exploratory fashion, the current study aimed to compare the effects of oral supplementation with a fixed Polypodium leucotomos/pomegranate combination (PPmix®) versus Polypodium leucotomos alone (Fernblock®) on skin biophysical parameters of Caucasian adults. METHODS: Forty healthy adult volunteers (20 males and 20 females; mean age: 37.2±5.5 years) were randomized in a 1:1 fashion to a fixed Polypodium leucotomos/pomegranate combination (480 mg/day; n=20) or Polypodium leucotomos alone (480 mg/day; n=20) for 3 months. Six skin biophysical parameters (skin sebum content, hydration, transepidermal water loss [TEWL], erythema index, melanin index, and elasticity) were measured at baseline and after 3 months by personnel blinded to participant allocation. RESULTS: At the end of the study, hydration and elasticity were significantly improved and TEWL was reduced in both groups, without significant intergroup differences. The erythema index was decreased by both treatments, although the fixed Polypodium leucotomos/pomegranate combination was significantly more effective. Finally, melanin index and skin sebum content were reduced by the fixed Polypodium leucotomos/pomegranate combination, whereas Polypodium leucotomos alone did not affect them. CONCLUSIONS: Our results suggest that a fixed Polypodium leucotomos/pomegranate combination provides a greater improvement of skin biophysical parameters compared to Polypodium leucotomos alone in adult Caucasians. Our findings may have implications for optimizing systemic skin photoprotection and beautification strategies.

In vivo cleansing efficacy of biodegradable exfoliating beads assessed by skin bioengineering techniques.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: The plastic microbeads, used in many cleansers, will be banned in cosmetic and personal care products within 2017 since they are non-degradable and can disturb the living organisms in water reservoirs. Various choices of biodegradable beads are commercially available, but their efficacy has not been proven yet. This study aimed to compare the cleansing efficacy in dirt and sebum removal aspects of three types of exfoliating beads. METHODS: The gel scrubs with polyethylene (PE) beads, mannan beads or wax beads, were formulated and evaluated for their stability. The in vivo evaluation was done in 38 healthy volunteers and the skin irritation, efficacy for dirt and sebum removal were measured by Mexameter® , Colorimeter® , and Sebumeter® , respectively. RESULTS: The selected gel scrubs did not cause an irritation in any volunteers. The differences in dirt residues between before and after scrubbing were not statistically significant among three gel scrubs and the similar result was also reported in the sebum removal study. CONCLUSION: All gel scrubs demonstrated the comparable cleansing efficacy in term of dirt and sebum removal. Thus, mannan beads and wax beads may be replaced non-biodegradable PE beads to achieve the similar cleansing effect.

Inhibition of Sebum Production with the Acetyl Coenzyme A Carboxylase Inhibitor Olumacostat Glasaretil.

Olumacostat glasaretil (OG) is a small molecule inhibitor of acetyl coenzyme A (CoA) carboxylase (ACC), the enzyme that controls the first rate-limiting step in fatty acid biosynthesis. Inhibition of ACC activity in the sebaceous glands is designed to substantially affect sebum production, because over 80% of human sebum components contain fatty acids. OG inhibits de novo lipid synthesis in primary and transformed human sebocytes. TrueMass Sebum Panel analyses showed a reduction in saturated and monounsaturated fatty acyl chains across lipid species, including di- and triacylglycerols, phospholipids, cholesteryl esters, and wax esters in OG-treated sebocytes. There was no shift to shorter acyl chain lengths observed, suggesting that the fatty acid chain elongation process was not affected. OG is a pro-drug of the ACC inhibitor 5-(tetradecyloxy)-2-furoic acid and was designed to enhance delivery in vivo. Topical application of OG but not 5-(tetradecyloxy)-2-furoic acid significantly reduced hamster ear sebaceous gland size, indicating that this pro-drug approach was critical to obtain the desired activity in vivo. High-performance liquid chromatography analyses of hamster ear extracts showed that OG treatment increased ACC levels and the ratio of acetyl-CoA to free CoA in these animals, indicating increased fatty acid oxidation. These changes are consistent with ACC inhibition. Matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization imaging showed that OG applied onto Yorkshire pig ears accumulated in sebaceous glands relative to the surrounding dermis. Sebaceous gland ACC represents an attractive therapeutic target given its central role in formation of sebum, a key factor in acne pathogenesis.